I know this isn’t a “common” wrench job, but I thought I would post my new Cervelo P2 setup for anyone who is trying to do something similar (and to show off some of my “skills”…not to mention something I could do with a broken shoulder). I got a lot of good info from Slowtwitch.com. Here’s the build, routing, and photos. Feel free to ask questions.
Zipp Vuka Stealth Aerobar Setup:
- Shimano Ultegra R671 Di2 bar end shifters
- Shimano 9071 Di2 brake levers/shifters
- 2x Shimano SM-JC41 internal junction boxes (stuffed inside base bar)
- 2x E-Tube wires to connect the to bar end shifters to internal junction boxes
- 1x E-Tube wire to connect the to internal junction boxes together
- Shimano Ultegra 6870 front derailleur
- Shimano Ultegra 6870 rear derailleur
- 1x Shimano SM-JC41 internal junction box (stuffed inside seat tube by bottom bracket)
- 1x E-Tube wire to connect junction box from base bar to seat tube port
Seat Tube/Post Setup :
- Shimano EWW01 D-Fly
- Shimano SM-BTR2 internal battery
- Shimano SM-SW90B 5-port external junction box
- 1x Shimano SM-JC41 internal junction box
- 1x E-Tube wire from internal junction box to one near bottom bracket
- 1x E-Tube wire to connect battery to internal junction box
- 1x E-Tube wire to connect D-Fly to internal junction box
- 1x E-Tube wire to connect D-Fly to external junction box
Both the front brake cable and Di2 wire are routed through the bottom hole in the base bar.
I was able to route the rear brake housing through the inside of the top tube. I just had to drill out the plastic cable ports by the steerer and seat post. Pushing the cable through took a bit of effort and trial-and-error, but the rear brake feels good.
I had to drill one hole in the seat post for the E-Tube wire. I’ve mounted the external junction box with zip ties to the seat rails. I really don’t need rear hydration this time of year, but zip ties are easy to remove and I can reposition the junction box when needed.
When, I get the time I’ll draw up a schematic…